Black Americanah in Rwanda

I was inspired to write this post (well, series of ramblings) from an article I read today called Blackness in the Peace Corps 

and from the Peace Corps Black History Month initiative to hear and share the stories and experiences of PCVs around the world.

In many of my previous blog posts I've mentioned in some way or another how being a black PCV in Africa differs from the experiences of people of other races on the continent. That revelation really isn't too surprising. Oftentimes ones race influences ones experiences, with both similarities and differences encompassing them. For me, fully explaining my identity as Black/ African/ British/ American requires a long explanation of my family's heritage. If you know me personally, you've probably heard this lengthy explanation to some extent. Yes I'm American, I lived there for 18 of my 23 years of life.  But I was born in Wales, and have British citizenship. Ah yes, I'm African too. My Mom was born and raised in Zambia and my Dad is half Gambian and half Ghanian and spent half his childhood in The Gambia, so much of my upbringing is influenced by their African upbringings. When people ask me where in America I'm from it gets even more complicated! Do I claim the first state I immigrated to? Where I spent the longest amount of time, or my college town where I resided until I embarked on this Peace Corps adventure?  This complicated explanation of my roots influenced some of the reasons why I wanted to join the Peace Corps- global experience, cultural diversity, and yes the cliche, self-discovery.

The article 'Blackness in the Peace Corps' describes the experience of a black PCV being the minority in his country of service (Mongolia). Although our experiences can seem very different on the surface, after reading the article I was surprised at how much this PCVs experience with race was similar to my own, and to those of some other black PCVs I know serving here in Rwanda. He mentions being called a nigger by locals.  I have been called that here in Rwanda, and although I have been extremely offended when people in the states called me that, I always have to put it in context here- unfortunately the full history and implication of the word nigger isn't really understood by the majority of people here, and it's heard mostly through its use in the American music that makes it to Rwanda. There are many words or actions that are unacceptable here (especially relating to The Genocide) that many people aren't aware of until they spend time here and learn about the culture. 

Another experience this PCV had was  living with a host family that seemed disappointed he wasn't a 'real American'- a 'blonde and blue-eyed, white American.' My host family was extremely welcoming of me and never expressed being disappointed I wasn't a white American, however other black volunteers have experienced that here in Rwanda and in other African countries of service as well. Again this is a community where the racist implications and offensiveness of that situation aren't fully understood by those who may express that, so it's important to be understanding and avoid getting too frustrated. 

From day to day, there are many things other PCVs experience that I don't. Although I stand out in my community as the foreigner that wears pants and 'American' clothes  and can barely speak the language, I still can usually avoid the constant stares, confused looks, and parades of children following me. I'll definitely consider that a benefit! 

Here in Rwanda, many of my first interactions with people in my community go as followed:

1. They see me, assume I'm Rwandan, start speaking to me in extremely fast Kinyarwanda, then start to realize I have no idea what's going on 

2. I tell them in my broken Kinyarwanda "vuga buhoro buhoro!" (Speak very slowly!) and explain to them that I only know a little Kinyarwanda. 

3. They then proceed to ask me if I speak Swahili or French, in which I respond no, sorry! 

4. They then look at me confused so  I tell them I'm from America and I speak English (There's been times when I explain my African heritage AKA if I'm feeling particularly patient that day)

5. Most people aren't convinced I'm from America so they'll  touch my skin and say/ kind of ask the question  'there aren't  people like this in America?!' You are African! 

6. I persistently tell them that there are black people in America!

7. At this point I've successfully (or at least I think I have) succeeded in accomplishing the peace corps goal of sharing American culture with Rwandans 

“But race is not biology; race is sociology. Race is not genotype; race is phenotype. Race matters because of racism. And racism is absurd because it’s about how you look. Not about the blood you have. It’s about the shade of your skin and the shape of your nose and the kink of your hair."

-Americanah 

I'm currently reading the book 'Americanah' by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie (thanks for the recommendation, Jackie)! In short this book is about a woman who immigrates to America from Nigeria, and is challenged with the struggles of culture shock, assimilation, and self-identity as an African in black America and in America as a whole. This book reminds me of a lot of what my parents went through, and to a small extent what me and my sisters went through when we immigrated  to America. This book was recommended to me at the perfect time- hitting the 8 month mark in Rwanda there are still times where I'm struggling to adjust, and this book puts it in the perspective of a woman traveling to America without the resources or support that I'm provided with through the structure of the Peace Corps (training, a host family, a living allowance, and an endless amount of guidance and advice from current and returned PCVs). 'Americanah' is a must read! 

A photo of the Black/African American volunteers in my swear in group- the largest group of Black/African American volunteers in a single swear in group! Rwanda community health June 2014-August 2016. 

Until next time,

Vanessa